Little to say today except a late arrival of 1hr 30mins into Ijmuiden. All was going well or rather not to bad until we hit road works around Hamburg with 300 miles complete the next 10 miles took 1hr 20mins.

Our arrival at Lumberg was with relief at 7pm the sun was shining and it was hot enough to sit outside, I had spotted the pub on the way in.

Map from day 1

Thursday ... and no miles today we visited Lubeck  town. I had stopped there 15 years previous on a bike trip and promised to return.

An excellent sunny day and showered by 7.30am had the makings of a long day, the town was very good many old buildings form part of the world heritage site.

Karen decision to visit a hat shop had the owner bemused at the size of my head, after a little consultation he asked for a measure and confirmed, in all his working life in the trade it was the biggest he had ever seen and had the chance to measure. His head measuring device only went up to 63cm and I was off the scale. He said the biggest he had seen previously was Eisenhower's. Not sure if that was good or bad. (No comments please)

Time for a boat trip around the canal this gave excellent views of the old town and we were able to locate the eating and drinking 1/4 in time for tea. All in all an excellent day Lubeck is littered with magnificent buildings and fine views.

A good 9.30 start in 23c, 1 hour drive to ferry for a 45min crossing to Denmark. The ferry must run at a loss they charge £75 for the one way crossing. It accommodates a train what a sight a high speed train pulling onto the ferry.

We were soon on our way to Copenhagen to be welcomed by 28c of heat and not a cloud now for 2 days, after 100 miles we arrived at our first full campsite. Luckily another was only 5 miles away, not as good, not as pretty but closer to the city. A trip to Tivoli gardens in the centre of town. Paul thought this was fantasticall the fun of the fair and I had to suffer, tasteless larger at £6 a pint (Tuborg).

Another excellent day sun shinning and hot. Made the decision to take the ferry rather than the bridge. People advised the ferry was a shorter drive and more to see.

Arrived in Jonkoping around 3pm and the temperature up tp 33c. a pleasent site by the lake. A £33 charge though. Everyone talks about fuel prices I found it strange that in 4 countries the price has not altered by more than 2p a litre at £1.20. Beer is the main concern. The woman in the beaur de change said beer starts at 40sek (11.7 to the £) and goes up over. I changed £300 got 3500sek back. I said 3500 i am rich she replied "you have not been in a pub yet".

Well mobile office ready to be put away and start spending that 3500. Plus I have drunk all the Tiger beer The Holdies left in the motor home.

The town was a gem, the weather was perfect and people were out to party . ( the government says high tax will prevent people drinking...not sure from what I have seen tonight) I was talking to a couple who vivited Deli in India last year and completed a similar trip to what I have planned for next year. They enjoyed it so much they brought a bike back (£1000 in India plus another £1000 duty transport etc).

A late start (good night out etc..most of the 3500 gone) and free internet connection provided me with the opportunity to bring the web site up to date, we made a late start for Stockholm. the sun was shinning again and the world looked fantastic. Even the coffee was good.

Took the decision to phone ahead for campsite, Just as well turned out we got one off the last places. the camp site is 6 miles from the centre 5mins from the underground station, saves the drive through the city. Spentthe rest of the day just lazing about in 33c heat ready for the big city tomorrow. the site looks well, got a bar etc. what more could you want... (free internet would be nice £7 for 1 hour wireless connection).

Well Stockholm had arrived, I had waited 10 years to look around here, and I must say it was worth the wait. the old town (on an island of its own) was fantastic. The government buildings are housed here along with the royal palace. Our timing was perfect and gave us the chance to see the changing of the guard along with all of the pomp.

We continued to use our transport tickets, well jumping on and off buses and trams at will, unti finally after 11 hours we gave in to the attraction of a few beers and bed.

Tuesday was the day the tour was to really begin, an overnight ferry to Tallin, leaving at 6pm. So rather than waste the day hanging around the campsite I frog marched the troops back to the city to be outside the Royal palace for before 10am to have a chance of beating the crowds. Karen not the greatest fan of looking round another Royal palace went along with the idea. Not the most interesting the Royals were out says Karen.

We did beat the crowds and 5th in line for a ticket ensured us a hassle free look around the royal apartments, treasury, museum and guest state rooms. Well worth the effort, we strolled along through the shops, to the T-bana(underground) and back to the campsite in time for 3pm check out.

The ferry was always a question of doubt in Karen's mind (foreign, smelly toilets etc) it turned out to be fantastic well up market. It also provided reduced price beer at £4 a pint and free interent conection.

Here cometh our adventure.

Straight off the boat and into a Police checkpoint, breathalysed. Well after lots of beer this had my heart ticking. Luckily for me the gadget must have been faulty and I was on my way.

Only a couple of miles today and City centre camping. Now do not complain it was clean good facilities and as the book said in the city centre. it just looked more like a car park.

Into town for breakfast and a look round the old town, what more can I say absolutely fantastic. A lot better than I had ever imagined, normally I find they never live up to the book and this was even better. Good food and beer followed then an early night.

Thursday and another sunny day and off for a spot of retail therapy, lunch, laze about and back to the old town. Fantastic again complete with a Chinese for supper.

Well time for a drive only done around 15 miles since Sunday and it's time to head south and sample Estonia way from the Glamour of the big city. Another nice Sunny day that hot you can not breath and warm enough to sit out till 10pm, not to uncomfortable during the night... in other words perfect for my liking.

Well the drive turned out to be only 75 miles pretty boring 15 miles on dirt (road works) arrived in Haapsalu and the first sight was a station full of old trains, one painted the rest, well work in progress. The campsite came with good reviews and it deserved them. The owner was very helpful and full of local knowledge which he was prepared to share.

Quick visit into town proved to be worthwhile if only for the atmosphere around the castle and the music...and good beer.

Up up and away for the crack of 11.45 this was planned as an early run to catch the ferry, Never mind still in time for 1pm ferry for the 40 minute crossing and at £11what a bargain.

The decision was made to go quite tonight and stop out of the big city. No bright lights and a night of self sufficiency on the campsite. This will discover if Karen can cook a burger and I can drink bottled beer all night and watch.(hes good at that)

The campsite was excellent complete with its own boating lake. I am beginning to wonder what all the worry had been about Estonia was looking better every day and I could spend the rest of the holiday here. Another approved by Alan Rogers guide books which we have used for the past 4 years.

The island of Saaremaa was off limits during the soviet occupation which ended in 1991 due to an early warning station and a rocket base being located on the island.

Sunday and we had are first taste of rain, thank fully all clear by lunch and in time to catch bus to town. The town had a festival going on which gave the place a bit of a buzz.

Well I was up and ready for 7..... however it was 11 by the time we moved, no great hurry Paul had a friend on the site played together for 2 days and neither spoke a word of the others language, fantastic to see. 125 miles plus the ferry. The only distraction would be a visit to the meteorite centre at Kaali, europe's most accessible meteorite centre and then to see the most photogenic windmills at Angla.

Parnu looked well and provided excellent food in a joint Chinese , Indian and Thai restaurant. The campsite and town must have been 90% Finish occupation. We have now seen only 1 other Brit since entering Estonia.

Another country another currency, another day. Heavy rain during the night continued through till lunchtime and was proper wet stuff. A quick visit to the beach just to say we had seen it was worth the effort big long sandy beach with no one about.

Time only to visit the last Estonian supermarket and collect the first of my beer imports, before leaving Estonia. Karen had a word about my comments on the weight of her 9 pairs of shoes and then I fill the garage with beer.(that's why I did not want any more shoes on board)

When we arrived in riga the sun was shining and the camp site almost full, a campsite with no view on a big car park. But as they say on the tin it is close to the city centre. the city looked a bit rough on the edges as we approached, the main centre looked a lot better.

And it was a lot better in fact it was excellent, what a wonderful day wondering around the old city and up the church tower and then up to the 26th floor of hotel to sit in the bar and watch the evening disappear.

A good drive out of the city and onto the worst road so far , well at least 50% of it. Forest after forest and small villages showing signs of the past before we finally reached Ventspils a big industrial looking place on one side a fantastic holiday resort on the other.

The campsite looked fantastic situated in a forest close to the town. The reception was excellent and so were the pitches, all numbered for a change compared to Riga where vans were lined up as if in a dealers parking lot.

The town was quiet and very nice. Drank the local Ventspils beer, Karen helped to rid most of the Russian Vodka Stocks left over from the occupation (4 = 1 uk measure) and off she toddled hole in jeans to suit.

The sun was shinning on the van and a sit outside for breakfast was in order. Then a mad decision to pack up and head for Palanga at noon turned bad. By the time we had revisited Ventspils to fill up with the local beer it was 6pm by the time we had arrived in Palanga. The town was busy. The campsite was about 5km from town and was a dump, a proper dump sadly the decision was made to bolt up in the motor home and see the night out. this had been the first night we had not headed for a recommended site ( now that will teach you). And it was a Friday!!!!!!!!!!!! Me walking to a beach on a Friday all alone.

One general was still about

Leaving early allowed a hair cut in Palanga by which time it was 11am before we set sail for Siauliai and the "hill of crosses" a 2 hour drive turned into 3 and a half as I resorted to traditional non GPS navigation techniques (Karen). This was the start of today's nightmare and I felt I was on a 24hour pilgrimage. 2 miles to go when Karen said you need the 150 road, so of we went 44 miles to do 2.

The hill of crosses, was fantastic and over populated with wedding cars. I counted 15 stretched Limos alone and the photograph's do little justice to the enormity of this spectacle.

Leaving the hill so late made the choice of campsites limited, especially after last nights non recommended affair. The choice I made today turned out to be closed after a 30 minute game of hide and seek with the grid reference, if only full GPS coverage was available it would so different.

Off we headed for Vilnius, arriving after more than 300 miles and 9pm at night and only to be told the bar closed at 10pm.

The added surprise was the meeting again of Peter and family from Poland. We had met them at previous campsite in Estonia (1 week and 2 countries apart and we are all together again ).

The campsite turned out to be great. Lots to do in the vicinity, a change from driving so lets explore.

Sunday.. and off we went to Trakia, a ferry runs every hour from the campsite to the island (although it is possible by road only 4 miles further) it was a wonderful place and what started in gray skies turned out sunny.

	St Peter's and St. Paul's Church Vilnius
	Outside St Peter and pauls church
	Old town Vilnius in the rain		Smiles and it only took a jacket potatoe

	More old town		Market square
	The Virgin Mary at St. Thereas Church built in to the Gates of Dawn (one of the best examples)

	Original Cathedral complete with Basilica, Vilnius

Monday..Taxi booked and off to the big city some 20 miles away, one look at the buses the day before had us jumping in a taxi. Only this is the day we have rain, however it cleared by lunch and by mid afternoon it looked a different place. It was more spread out than Riga or Tallin but we still did it justice. The taxi returned at 8pm. I could have stopped and tried the local beer for a lot longer, if only.

Tuesday..A big change as we decided to stop at this place one more day and have a laze about.

	All the fun of the Lake
	Even mam went in the water

Well the days get shorter as we spend more time travelling, sadly I headed out of town towards Bellarus and had to do an about turn which added about an hour to our day. The drive on the Polish side was fantastic, through nice country side. Spoilt for a while with the rain, which cleared by the time we arrived. I also realised that my hour lost was regained with Polish clock being 1 hour back.

The campsite was set in the middle of nowhere on the edge of a lake, it is a famous historic site with settlements found here from 500BC. It made a change from the towns and city's and boasted 2 bars one built in a cave and the other like a tree house. The evening was one to remember sitting with a stuffed bear eating dinner.

Not wanting to rush away from such a good location made for a 11.30 departure in fact the whole area is beautiful and worth a return.

Although the scenery was excellent the roads deteriated and it took 4 hours to cover 100 miles. Thankfully the next 50 were on Poland's version of a motorway, and covered in an hour. Then the city of Gdansk slowed us again taken an hour to cover the last 9 miles.

Arriving at the site we would witness just how many people you can squeeze on a few acres of land, once again the price you pay for being so close to the city. The plus point was the sun was shining and we were near the bars.

Sopot the beach resort of Gdansk was a fantastic place by night, busy and jumping. An open air cinema had the crowds packed in. The number of bars proved too many to count and it was well after midnight before Paul tired of it.

Friday and off to Gdansk and I will let the photos tell the story, apart from the fact we picked a national holiday to visit. It was busy but it gave a feal of excitement, street cafes and bars as far as you could see. visited St. Mary's church and being a holiday it was packed, standing room only, the church can hold 25,000 people.

Sadly it rained and rained and this put an early end to the day.

It is hard to believe that Gdansk was damaged so much during the war and has been rebuilt brick by brick and the work still on going.

This was all about heading home trying to make the most of the fact that home is where we are headed.

A long slow drive out of Gdansk the 300 miles took from 9am till 6pm with only a 45 min break, sadly 30 minutes wasted by poor directions to the site and that hurt this late in the day. However what turned out to be a site in the middle of nowhere turned out to be a good night in the smallest of German villages about 30 miles north of Berlin with an excellent cafe serving good beer and a reluctance to close made for a good night.

This camp site was massive all set in the woods and over 75 acres in size, it also incorporated a water ski drag which at 10 euros per hour looked good value.

Sunday all day drive again, with no excitement only 7 hours driving and luck on our side we drove straight to the site and for once it was as expected or at least what it said on the tin, perfect. I might have given it a 10 if not for only selling Heineken lager. Well you can't have everythink. (oh as good as internet is, it cost extra).

Then Karen went and spoilt it by saying this one could not be included in the voting as it was not part of the real Baltic tour, only a bus stop on the way home. well I decided that tonight is the last proper night and its time for the bar. Anyway this was our last and ninth country we have slept in 4 weeks and I think I shall celebrate.

	Holland and a pool , that's right spoil me the last night
	One day son... a normal boring holiday, and showers that work and......

Left site at 2pm and the traffic was the busiest I have ever seen getting to Ijumden with an hour to spare.

Okay thats that another one done, what next......This is the way it was

Karen’s Bit

It was with in trepidation I started out on this holiday. A month touring, visiting 9 countries, a lot of driving, a lot of site seeing, a lot of midges (remember last year).

Good crossing to Ijmuiden. Lubeck very beautiful, very hot. Stockholm very vibrant and expensive, the Old Town not to be missed. Ferry to Tallinn, Cruise Liner very nice best crossing ever. Estonia, Tallinn the capital fabulous. The sea front very busy lots of people on skates. Paul loved it and so did his Dad lots of pretty slim girls, skating all with big boobs buying skates on my return to Blighty.

I loved the City of Riga; it had a real feel good factor lots of people watching. The West coast a lot like Blackpool won't be revisiting.

The Hill of Crosses is awesome to see and very moving. (Okay so I read the map wrong)

Villinious another City very big beautiful churches, we have visited numerous churches and shrines and lit lots of candles for our families and friends and oh the goldfishes.

Poland (please repair roads) undecided on this Country. Need to see more, but have made a lovely friend Catherine, who is polish and I hope to see again.

Travelling: Lots of miles, lots of trees.

Hated: Coin operated showers. Shared toilets with fellas.(billy's plus point) Push button showers.

Loved: Riga, Hill of Crosses, Our Lady in Villiunus, (a holy picture said to perform miracles), baked potatoes for lunch so tasty in Villinus.

In a word, I have loved this holiday camping no problem Billy’s moans, about driving ignored totally, on the homeward stretch, but could stay for more of the same.